Grant Muller

Make Your Apple Pro Speakers Useful

appleprospeakers-2I am convinced that everything Apple develops fits in to one of two categories: awesome or suck. In the awesome category you have stuff like the iPod, iPhone, and OS X. In the suck category, iTunes, iPhotos, and *ahem* their font management. Many years ago, when Apple started putting an ‘i’ in front of anything to make it the future, you could get an iMac. This was a neat little machine, underpowered but fun, that my wife bought to handle some graphic design. This little machine came with a pair of speakers that only sounded alright, but were appropriately labeled ‘Apple Pro Speakers’. It was only recently that I realized which category they fit in

A while ago I decided I’d use these speakers in the workshop so I would have some tunes while I’m working on stuff. I have an old computer down there, so I hooked them up and pressed play. Nothin’. I tried them on a few devices, and realized they only worked on the iMac. Had Apple really made proprietary speakers. I did some research and sure enough, the Apple Pro Speakers will only work on a Mac. This is unacceptable.

I figured at the end of the day, a speaker is a speaker, so with the right kind of modifications these should work anywhere. I looked at the jack and found that it had three sleeves instead of the standard two. The third ring must carry a signal of some kind, meaning somewhere between the jack and the speakers there had to be logic device to prevent sound if this signal wasn’t present. This is the offending piece:

appleprospeakers-1Where the speakers meet there is a tiny round enclosure, if you cut the speakers off at this point, and rewire them to a two ring stereo jack, you have salvaged your Apple Pro Speakers. You could take it a but further though…

I had broken the head band on a pair of noise canceling headphones a while back, and they were just sitting around taking up space. The noise canceling circuit of these headphones contains an amplifier, so I figured why not use the broken headphones to power the speakers, then I can just plug my iPod in and go.

I didn’t get real fancy with this, just pulled the speakers out of the headphones, and wired up the Apple Pro speakers directly to those now unused outputs. Cheapest iPod speakers ever (as long as you don’t count the price of the iMac or the headphones that were previously broken).

So if you have a pair of old Apple Pro Speakers, don’t just throw them away because they suck, put them to good use.


  1. Hello,

    I have a PowerMac G4 Sawtooth AGP I just bought and have read that these speakers don’t work with it, only later G4s (Digital Audio and later). In other sites where I read about hacking the Apple Pro speakers, when the small round junction is cut away, there are a few — 4 or 6 — wires of different colors. What was the color scheme on your Pro Speakers and the headphones you used? Could you use pair of old broken iPhone or iPod earbuds for this?

  2. @Victoria
    In mine, I had 3 wires per side, 1 blue, 1 white, and the shield (its just plain copper). You might have to play around with it for a while to figure out which wires are which, but since there are only 2 cables carrying any audio, you’re talking about a maximum of 16 combination’s (would be 32 if polarity wasn’t a concern).

    You should be able to use a pair of old iPod earbuds for this, but as I understand it, those cables are standard. No pass-thru pin to protect you from using them on other devices.

  3. Hi Grant, thank you very much for your help. I was searching so long time for exatly that subject. Well, what i would like is an advice how I could plug these speakers to an amplifier, so that I could be more flexible. Well, in the end, it should be possible to plug any Speaker to an amplifier, because each speaker has a Plus and Minus pole wich can be connected to an amplifier. Did you see, wich cable is the plus?

    Sorry, I hope you understand me, I’m swiss and my motherlanguage is German.

    Hope to get an answer from you. Kindest regards Cristina

    1. No problem, you should have just asked in Swiss German, I have plenty of friends who could have translated that for me very easily 🙂

      I just did a typical check if the speaker by plugging in a small battery (like a double AA or something), into the speaker wires. What you do is touch the positive terminal and the negative terminal of the battery to each speaker wire. If the speaker “pushes” outward, than you have the phase correct (meaning that the wire touching the positive terminal of the battery is the positive wire). If the speaker pushes inward, than you have it backward. Does that make sense?

  4. Hey Grant, First off, you are awesome to have done this. I’ve been looking all over the web for a “how-to” do this. Is there any way you can make a video of this and post it on your site or a link to youtube on how you did this (quick step by step). I’m a visual person and it would be really helpful. Thanks in advance!

    1. I could probably make time for that. I haven’t used these speakers in the long time, I’d probably have to take them out of a box. Worst case, I can talk to you offline about how to do it.

      1. Hey, any luck with this? I’m working on an authentic upgrade of an iMac G4 and would love to get those speakers working with a standard audio jack and (if need be) small amp without modifying the speaker’s cable at all. I’m planning on removing the proprietary jack from the G4’s mother board and soldering into that. Any advice/help would be great.


        1. I don’t think you should do anything to the motherboard. I would toy with the speakers themselves before doing anything that drastic. The computer should be able to drive these little speakers without issue. Its only something like an iPod that puts out very low signal that would require an amplifier.

  5. very clever Grant.. i like! I just dug up my imac and mac pro speakers thinking I could easily plug these into my airport express for some wi-fi music, but alas, here I am at this discussion for obvious reasons.. so.. you say above that I can easily cut cable above the enclosure, rewire them and they should work fine, correct?
    Is the rewiring straight forward (color-to-color) or is there more to it?

    option 2 is if I want to add an amplifier component to them as you did. so without a wired amp, would the volume/performance be poor? I can’t tell from the photo above but doing this option, is a/c power needed or the speakers simply plug into the (ipod) device?

    I have a computer speaker set that comes with two small standard speakers that each plug in to a sub-woofer/amp.. so I’m wondering as yet another option to rewire each of these mac pro speakers separately (to a mono 3.5mm male plug) and plug them into the sub-woofer/amp to get maximum use of their audio quality?

    thoughts? thanks!!

    1. The wiring is very straightforward, should just be color to color. I believe that mine were blue and red, but it may be different internally for you. You can also just use a pair of alligator clips to test it out.

      The quality/volume is extremely poor without an amplifier of some kind. If you are using a computer, it should drive them just fine, but you’re not going to be able to just plug an iPod in and expect it to sound alright. AC power isn’t necessary to plug into an iPod, but you’ll want to build in some kind of inline battery powered amplifier to run your iPod off of it.

      The second option you mention should work just fine (plugging in to the sub). You’ll want to start with the volume very low, since you don’t know the wattage that the sub is putting out, but it should be able to drive those speakers without issue.

  6. alright, so I’m in the middle of the operation and have separated the speakers and have stripped off the white plastic coating.. I now see that one speaker has a white and blue wires, the other speaker has red and yellow wires. do i now have to remove the color coating off of each wire on the speakers?

    Also I guess its a matter of trial and error knowing which are positive and negative.. also because the old headphone cables that I’m splicing them to have a red and copper, the a green and copper sets of wires so I’m not sure which belong with which..

    1. I recall the blue wire. That should be the positive. I imagine on the other the red is positive. You should be able to test them out with some alligator clips to test which is + and which is –

      You will need to strip off the insulation to get to the conductors

  7. thanks for your help and time! well I’ve successfully stripped the wires and have tried all combos while the speakers are plugged into my computer and somethings not working.. It seems pretty straight forward and I’ve spliced speaker cables before no problem.. I tested these speakers before cutting off the enclosure and they worked fine.. I also tested the old pair of headphones from which I’m using the male output cable and they worked fine too. hmm . Am I missing something?

    1. Sorry, I was tied up there for a while. What color are the wires coming from the main plug? You should have at least 3. From the speakers you’ll have at 2 per speaker. We just need to find the positive ground relationship between those connections.

      Keep in mind that this must be connected to an output that actually puts out some power, like your computer’s sound card.

  8. hi there.. thanks for checking in! the old headset from which I’m using the wires are the big over-the-ears 70’s style looking headphones.. but not from the seventies. it has a left and right set of wires that come together to a 3.5mm male jack. each side has two wires.. one side has a copper and a green wire. the other side has a copper and a red wire. The thing is that I have it plugged into my computer, and I switch connecting each color to the wires from the pro speakers and none of the combinations work. weird . I tested both the pro speakers and the old headphones before cutting any wires so I’m at a loss because it seems pretty straight forward. also I plugged the speaker wires into my stereo amp and they still work. thanks for your help!

    1. Sorry for taking so long, it’s been a hell of a week.

      What you have with those wires is a positive and a negative. The copper is likely the negative, the colored wires are the positives (red and green).

      Now, I’m assuming what you’ve done is separated the speakers from the main junction, and you have two free standing speakers. The wires there I think are blue and white, though I might be mistaken. At any rate you should have a colored wire and a less colored wire. The colored wires should connect together, the other copper should connect as well.

      If that doesn’t seem like it’s working make sure you turn it up! The volume will need to be quite loud to drive these speakers most likely, depending on the source.

  9. Hey Grant!

    I’ve cut apart another pair of old headphones just in case and the process still isn’t working. From everything else I’ve read, they only work when plugged directly into some sort of amp. When I do that, they work.. as soon as I try to splice an extension cord to them, it doesn’t work.. its only when the speakers are directly plugged in to an amp that I get a result.

    Since you seem to have had success with this, I would love (moreso out of curiosity at this point than anything else) to send these to you with extension cord pieces and pay you for you time.. let me know if you’re up for it and no worries if you want to pass … to be continued … 😉

  10. Hi Grant, My understanding was that these speakers had amplifiers in them, and that the third connection on the cable was the power to the amps. I don’t have a set in front of me at this point – do I have that wrong?

  11. I opened up the center enclosure at the “Y” and removed the chip . I wanted to keep the cords stock. the red and black wires are going to be abandoned and the others still continue to the plug (blue/white, yellow/brown) ill dissect the plug and then add the new normal sized headphone jack.

  12. you know im reading this + cringing.. these speakers were made to be matched with macintosh computers people!!! you shouldnt be modifying them.. rather sellign them to a collector who actually own + still use the computers for which they match..

    heres some info on which computers they work with:

    basically all the macs from 2000-2002 is what these work with..
    which is the golden age of the power mac g4 basically.. theres TONS of these machines
    still in use, probably by kids + poor people in 2012

    its such a shame to read of you guys destroying them.. albeit the powermac g4’s are not
    usefull for media/internet browsing in this day + Age but they can still be used with a huge asscortment of macintosh vintage media cdroms for learning + entertainment or more appropriately now, nostalgia.

    i recently bought a pair for $1 at a thrift store when i spotted them, took them home, plugged them into the port hidden on the bottom of my quicksilver 933mhz mac.. works like a charm, even the start up bong is routed through the speakers..

    dont destroy these speakers.. sell them to a hobbyist using a powermac g4.

  13. I figure that this comment is kind of late in the discussion about these speakers, since they are from such an old, outdated model computer which no-one probably even has or cares about anymore, but I had just found a pair of these exact model speakers in the trash (!!) recently, outside of a second hand store, and I figured I might be able to use them if I could modify/replace their plug with a more standard, stereo (3-wire) 1/8″ (3.5mm) one… Having NO idea what they originally went with/hooked up to… (I only found out later about the iMac thing), but anyway, I wanted to use these with my PC, so I decided to modify their input connector…

    Anyway, after cutting away the original, proprietary plug, I found a total of 6 wires + a shield/ground… Using a multimeter, and a AAA battery, (as Grant had also mentioned above), I discovered that they were connected as follows:

    The “Left” (L) Speaker is connected to the White and Blue (“larger”) wires:
    White is Positive
    Blue is Negative

    The “Right” (R) Speaker is connected to the Yellow and Brown (“larger”) wires:
    Yellow is Positive
    Brown is Negative

    (There are also two other (“smaller”) wires; a tiny Red one and a tiny Black one, which are NOT connected in any way to either of the speakers…. More on those wires to follow….)

    Anyway, connecting the two Negative speaker wires, (Blue and Brown), together to the “Ground” connection of a 3-wire standard 1/8″ stereo miniplug, and the Right Positive, (Yellow), wire to the “Ring” terminal of the new 1/8″ stereo miniplug, and the Left Positive, (White), wire to the “Tip” terminal of the new 1/8″ stereo miniplug will work perfectly to get these speakers properly operational again, with both channels (L & R) in proper order, and both speakers “in-phase”, so they sound the best… HOWEVER… (!!)…

    Me being the “curious” kind, I also had to know what the other two wires were connected to, (i.e. the (“smaller”) Red and Black ones in the original connector), and as far as I could tell with just my meter, they weren’t connected to any of the speaker wires themselves at all, as mentioned, however between just themselves, the smaller Red and Black wires had a definite resistance, a small capacitance, and most significantly, a DIODE or other semiconductor across them, because in my meter’s “Diode Test” mode, between just the smaller Red and Black wires, I would get an “Open Circuit” one way, and if I reversed the meter leads on those two wires I would read ~”0.6 Volt” every time I checked it… And that exact result only happens with some sort of semiconductor across the wires, (usually a diode or transistor of some kind), so that got me really curious as to what else was inside that center round “junction” where the speakers individually split off to Left and Right!…

    So, since I had nothing to lose since these speakers were basically useless to me as they were originally anyway, I very carefully broke and cut open that center junction, (it wasn’t easy either!!), to find a 6-pin surface mount “IC CHIP” of some kind in there!… I was thinking what in the hell was that for, if it wasn’t connected to the speakers??… I looked at the numbers printed on the chip itself and Googled them, and I come to find out that the “chip” in the center junction of these speakers is actually apparently an “EEPROM”, (model/part number DS2430A)??!!… Now I STILL wonder what purpose Apple had designed this little thing into a pair of computer speakers for!… Anyone out there ever discover what this EEPROM’s actual purpose is inside a set of speakers like this??… You don’t apparently need it to be connected at all for the speakers themselves to work, if you wire them as I mentioned above, but I’m still really curious, so if anyone out there is actually “nerdy” enough to have found out WHY these speakers have that chip in them, (and what it’s purpose is), I would really love to know!!…

    Anyway, whether or not I ever find out why these speakers have anything so relatively “complicated” in them as that, (especially for just a speaker!), doesn’t really matter in the end… I just hope all of this technical info actually helped someone out in modifying and wiring these speakers up properly in order to make them useful again, without having to (just) use them with an old, outdated iMac! LOL!…

    Modding these and wiring them up as mentioned above though would definitely still benefit from using them with an amplified speaker level output of at least 1 watt per channel, as just a simple “headphone” output of most portable devices such as cellphones, etc. is NOT loud enough or powerful enough to drive these speakers to any kind of loud volume without major distortion, as they are 8-ohm nominal drivers, and most headphone outputs are designed to work with more typical headphone impedances of around 100 ohms or so… So you definitely benefit from using a small amplifier with these speakers to make them sound their best, (not that they are all that awesome anyway, but to be their “best” you should have a small audio amp of some kind behind them)!… Most normal computer speaker outputs are enough I’ve found to make them sound at least decent, and they can handle up to about 5 or 10 watts of music power without sounding like too much crap, as long as the signal is clean and undistorted… (hence preferably a small audio amplifier)… And now modded with a more typical 1/8″ (3.5mm) stereo (3-conductor) “miniplug” type connector on them, they are MUCH more useful with other audio things than (just) “iMac” G-4’s!! LOL!

    Good luck and have fun experimenting with these!

    1. The EPROM chip is used by the Power PC Quicksilver Mac Pro (and perhaps other models) to detect if the external speakers are Apple Pro ones (made by Harman Kardon). On the mother board there is a Texas Instruments TA53001C codec and the external speaker socket powers the Apple Pro speakers as well as sending audio.

  14. The DS2430A EEPROM is written with the product information so the Mac knows that the speakers are Apple Pro Speakers. The TriPath Amplifier that powers them is on the motherboard and the high level output signal goes to the drivers. The Mac OS 9/OS X audio drivers support them and have a specific equalization curve for them – in addition the driver controls the software crossover when used with an iSub through OSX 10.4. Small class T amplifiers work well with these speakers (Like the Lepai 2020A+) but if you want any fullness or listen to anything other than classical the limitations in low end response are the same as connected to a supported Macintosh. I have them on my 2012 Mac Mini connected to a Lepai amp and a 6.5″ powered subwoofer and it is a fantastic combination. I would take it any day over any cheap 2.1 speaker system. After the “Y” there is nothing proprietary about these speakers.

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